Latin America

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Argentina if By Land, Chile if By Sea

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Argentina if By Land, Chile if By Sea

Flying to the edge of the world was easy, working my way back into civilization proved more challenging. My goal was to intercept the Carretera Austral, the only road through Chilean Patagonia, but limited onward travel options from Puerto Natales didn’t help much in getting me there. There is a ferry back to Puerto Montt but then working my way back south only to be stuck again seemed silly; as did returning to Punta Arenas and flying. By road in Chile it’s impossible as the Southern Patagonian Icefield, the largest non-polar glacial region in the world, stands in the way. Without a clue of what to do, I found my answer at the bus terminal in the form of a ticket across the border to Argentina.

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Torres del Paine

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Torres del Paine

There are few, if any, national parks in the world with the level of accolade and infamy that surrounds Torres del Paine. The grandeur of its natural features, the remoteness of its location, and the brutality of its weather all combine to create a marvelous beast of an attraction and a notch that every outdoor enthusiast would like to add to their belt. There are many ways to explore the crown jewel of Patagonia, but I opted to go all out and hike the famed ‘O’ Circuit. The 8 day / 7 night stroll covers something on the order of 130km and is nothing short of spectacular, but it’s challenges begin long before you step foot on the sacred trail.

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Patagonia Bound

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Patagonia Bound

When I decided on South America as stage one of my travels I had never been on any particularly long trips before. Sixteen days was the longest period of time I had spent abroad, and that was work related. I initially earmarked three months to explore Peru and Chile, but before my flight to Lima even boarded, it was clear that wasn't going to cut it. In the roughest of pre-trip outlines my final adventure was going to be hiking the world renowned 'O'-Circuit in Torres del Paine National Park. Then I would head back to Santiago and continue onward to my next destination. In reality my pre-booked campsite reservations (the only premeditated activity upon embarking, out of necessity) eventually turned my leisurely stroll through Peru and Bolivia into an all out sprint down to Southern Patagonia. Here I stand in central Chile, with five days to cover about 2500 km.

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Working Away

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Working Away

I staggered off the bus from Santiago towards Lonquimay at 7:00am with no idea what to expect. I had been nervously dozing off, alarms set at 20 minute intervals. My ‘stop’, if you can call it that, was 2km outside the town Malalcahuello. Each signature iPhone chime (yes I now have an iPhone, yes I know that makes me a traitor) sent chills down my spine that I had missed it, and was now lost for good in the Chilean country side. I was instructed to exit the bus at road marker 88.7km on Ruta 181 and there I would find my home for the next month. It all worked out, I clumsily confirmed the location with the driver, grabbed my bag and was greeted by my soon to be roommate. I ate some breakfast, acquainted myself with the new surroundings, and slowly eased into a very different lifestyle than I have ever known.

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The Road to Malalcahuello

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The Road to Malalcahuello

After two and a half months traveling in developing countries, entering Chile came with sticker shock. Prices on basic items went up close to ten-fold from Bolivia. My usual $6-$8 a night (breakfast included) for accommodation rocketed towards $20+ and nothing beyond instant coffee was provided...maintaining my budget was going to be much trickier here.