When I decided on South America as stage one of my travels I had never been on any particularly long trips before. Sixteen days was the longest period of time I had spent abroad, and that was work related. I initially earmarked three months to explore Peru and Chile, but before my flight to Lima even boarded, it was clear that wasn't going to cut it. In the roughest of pre-trip outlines my final adventure was going to be hiking the world renowned 'O'-Circuit in Torres del Paine National Park. Then I would head back to Santiago and continue onward to my next destination. In reality my pre-booked campsite reservations (the only premeditated activity upon embarking, out of necessity) eventually turned my leisurely stroll through Peru and Bolivia into an all out sprint down to Southern Patagonia. Here I stand in central Chile, with five days to cover about 2500 km.
Working Away
I staggered off the bus from Santiago towards Lonquimay at 7:00am with no idea what to expect. I had been nervously dozing off, alarms set at 20 minute intervals. My ‘stop’, if you can call it that, was 2km outside the town Malalcahuello. Each signature iPhone chime (yes I now have an iPhone, yes I know that makes me a traitor) sent chills down my spine that I had missed it, and was now lost for good in the Chilean country side. I was instructed to exit the bus at road marker 88.7km on Ruta 181 and there I would find my home for the next month. It all worked out, I clumsily confirmed the location with the driver, grabbed my bag and was greeted by my soon to be roommate. I ate some breakfast, acquainted myself with the new surroundings, and slowly eased into a very different lifestyle than I have ever known.
The Road to Malalcahuello
After two and a half months traveling in developing countries, entering Chile came with sticker shock. Prices on basic items went up close to ten-fold from Bolivia. My usual $6-$8 a night (breakfast included) for accommodation rocketed towards $20+ and nothing beyond instant coffee was provided...maintaining my budget was going to be much trickier here.
The Flats & The Flamingos: Drifting Through Uyuni
Bolivia is full of amazing and wild places but as far as tourist draw is concerned, one exist in a league of its own: The Uyuni Salt Flats a.k.a Salar de Uyuni. Almost any South American travel itinerary includes a trip through the unique landscapes that lay between the little town of Uyuni, Bolivia and the tourist hub of San Pedro, Chile. There are many places to take a trip from, and an ungodly number of agencies hawking them, but once you and your five companions load into that Toyota Land-Cruiser, you enter a different planet. However, the itinerary of a Uyuni trip is pretty set no matter what any guide agency may tell you. So over the course of three days it’s pretty rare to have a moment to yourself; your extra-terrestrial explorations might include many extra, terrestrial beings.
No Silver Linings: A Quick Stop in Potosi
After my long stay in Sucre it felt good to be back on the move. There was still so much ground to cover in Bolivia and now I had kindergarten Spanish under my belt; what could hold me back? Perhaps a live and active road blockade in the city of Potosi, that could do the trick... About 5km outside the high altitude mining town an inconveniently placed tractor trailer made it pretty clear the bus was going no further. Everyone unloaded with limited fuss, it seemed this was not as uncommon as it felt. The rest of the journey downtown would be made on foot.